Building the Floor: Use 7 2x4s that are 93" for the floor joist, 1 4x4s to 8-feet for each skid and 2 2x4s to 8-feet for the floor band. Nail through the bands after positioning the 93" joist 16" apart and towards the end of the joists, while toe nailing it into the skids. Make sure the floor frame is leveled and add a 2x4 if it is low anywhere. Square the floor frame while measuring diagonally across until both sides are measured the same and making sure it is squared. Nail the 5/8" 4x8 plywood on top of the frame afterwards. Constructing the Walls: Start by laying out the 2x4 8-feet late and the 2x4" wall studs that will be spaces 24" apart, then nail the wall studs through the plates. Install 4x4 5/8" T1-11 siding exterior with the frame still on the ground, and nail the siding to it. The bottom will hang approximately 2" past the bottom plate, with the top flush with the top plate. Raise the wall and use a 2x4 brace if needed while nailing the sidewalls and use 12d nails for inside the bottom plate and into the decking's floor. Building the Roof's Frame: Start by spreading the bottom to 97 1/4" and make sure that the peak is in the center, and nail a gusset to where the rafters are joining. Use the first truss as a template for the rest and double-check that they are all exactly the same. The bottoms of the rafters should be flushed with the siding if everything is correct, then nail the trusses once they are over the gambrel shed's wall studs. Constructing the Roof: The trim will hang approximately 5/8" on the sides after the 1x6 97 1/4 sidewall trim has been installed. If everything is done correctly the top of the roof should be flushed with the siding. Next, install the 5/8" plywood decking. Building the Front Wall and the Door: Start by laying out the parts for the door frame on a work table and nail the stiles and the base to the uprights. This part is only temporary until the siding is actually built. Screw in the 4" hinges to the uprights and then to the jamb. If need be, use C clamps to hold the jambs in place. The jamb should be sticking out 1/4" past the top, even though it is not with the upright, which will let the door swing freely and so it won't hit the lintel. The T1-11 will have an edge that is expected to overlap the siding on the opposite, which will be past the door frame upright. When the door is closed the siding that sticks out will give the door a tighter seal, so leave it alone. Nail into each door part and through the siding's back, and then use a straight edge to make a lime between the door frames upright and the door jamb.